How to Remove Wallpaper: Protect the Wall, Remove Paste and Prep for Paint

To remove wallpaper, first test whether it peels off dry. If it does not, soften the backing and adhesive with a compatible wallpaper remover, lift the paper gently, then wash away the paste before repairing and priming the wall. The useful test is how easily the layer releases—not how hard you can scrape.

1. Test a corner and identify the layer that is staying behind

Start at a loose seam in an inconspicuous place. A sheet that lifts away with its backing may be strippable; follow its maker’s removal instructions. A decorative face that comes off while a thin paper layer remains calls for a second step: softening that backing. If nothing releases, the surface may be coated, painted over or very firmly bonded. Do not assume every beige layer is wallpaper. The paper facing of drywall belongs to the wall and should stay there. Take a close photograph of the test area before continuing so you can compare the exposed surface as you work. If the goal is only to fix a new bubble, see why wallpaper bubbles after hanging before committing to removal.

• Whole sheet releases: continue the gentle dry-peel test without automatically adding water.
• Face releases, backing remains: treat the remaining backing rather than scraping the wall aggressively.
• Wall facing tears or powdery material comes away: stop and reassess the surface before expanding the test.

2. Protect the room and check older painted surfaces

Set up the work area before opening remover. Move portable furnishings, protect floors and fixed surfaces, and keep a bag nearby for sticky scraps. ROMAN advises switching off electricity to the room and covering outlets before wet removal. Keep liquid out of electrical fittings; a cover is not permission to spray them. If the home was built before 1978, paint underneath or on top of the wallpaper may contain lead. EPA recommends a lead-safe certified contractor for renovations in older homes where lead paint may be disturbed. Resolve that question before scoring, sanding or scraping painted layers. Keep children and pets out of the work area. Stop for unexplained dampness, substantial crumbling or a surface you cannot identify.

• Gather a suitable scraper, sponge, clean water, wallpaper remover and the protective equipment specified on its label.
• Use a stable work platform for high areas; keep the route to it clear of wet scraps.
• For electrical uncertainty or suspect old coatings, get the appropriate professional assessment before proceeding.

3. Apply remover to a manageable test section

Water has to reach the adhesive to help. A vinyl coating can prevent penetration, so try peeling the face first. If a compatible scoring tool is needed, use light pressure according to its instructions; pressing harder can puncture drywall. Mix and apply a commercial remover exactly as labeled, including ventilation and protective equipment. Begin with a small section you can finish before it dries. BEHR uses a four-foot-square working section in its guide; starting smaller is sensible when you are learning how the wall behaves. Allow the labeled dwell time, then test an edge. If the backing still resists, reapply as directed rather than increasing force. Do not combine remover with household cleaners.

Example working area: 4 × 4 feet = about 1.2 × 1.2 metres. Start smaller if the paper dries before you can remove it.

4. Lift softened paper in small, controlled passes

Work from a seam or loosened edge, moving across a small area rather than chasing one stubborn scrap around the room. Keep a flat scraper close to the wall so its edge lifts the paper instead of digging into it. The Wallcovering Installers Association recommends returning to soaking when the backing will not release. Let the softened layer come away; do not use the blade to shave the wall. Collect wet strips promptly so they do not spread paste underfoot. Check the exposed surface after each pass. A change from intact backing to fuzzy or torn wall facing is a reason to pause, even if the rest of the sheet looks easy.

• Only tiny dry flakes come off: check whether the coating is blocking the remover or the backing needs more dwell time.
• Paper releases but the wall remains slippery: plan a separate paste-cleaning pass.
• Scraper leaves gouges: stop pressing harder; reconsider moisture, angle and the condition of the wall.

5. Consider steam only when the wall and equipment allow it

A wallpaper steamer can loosen resistant adhesive, but heat and moisture do not make every wall suitable for steaming. Sherwin-Williams describes working in small sections and lifting softened paper with a putty knife. Follow the steamer’s own filling, contact-time, cooling and refill instructions; do not hold a hot plate in one place while you work elsewhere. Steam and hot water can burn, and too much moisture can damage drywall. Keep the hose and power supply clear of your feet and the wet work area. If the wall softens, blisters or loses its facing, stop. Renting equipment is not a substitute for first proving that a small test patch can be removed without unacceptable damage.

Steam contact time is equipment-specific. Use the manual’s limit rather than a universal timer.

6. Remove the paste, then rinse the wall

A wall can look bare and still carry adhesive. The Wallcovering Installers Association suggests checking a wetted area for a slick feel that indicates remaining paste. Follow the remover’s cleanup directions, use a suitable sponge and change dirty water as needed. Rinse without flooding the wall. BEHR warns that paper or glue left behind can cause problems with the new paint film. Make cleanup a separate inspection step rather than assuming the last scraped strip means the job is finished. Check corners, the edges of trim and places where several strips overlapped. Let the surface dry before judging whether it is ready for repairs or coating.

• Work methodically from one side of the wall to the other so cleaned and uncleaned areas do not get confused.
• Recheck any glossy, sticky or visibly raised residue instead of covering it immediately.
• Do not use fresh paint to conceal remaining wallpaper fragments or an unresolved damp patch.

7. Repair the exposed surface before the new finish

Removal sometimes reveals small nicks or torn drywall facing. ROMAN’s repair sequence includes removing loose material, sealing damaged facing with an appropriate product, applying joint compound as needed, allowing it to dry, smoothing and cleaning, then priming for the final finish. Choose products compatible with the actual substrate and follow their drying instructions. Resolve possible lead paint before any sanding, and use the dust protection appropriate to the work. Extensive loose plaster, persistent moisture or widespread damaged drywall needs assessment beyond a cosmetic patch. Examine repairs with light cast across the surface: shadows reveal ridges that an even front light can hide.

Finish checkpoint: paper removed → paste cleaned → surface dry → repairs complete → compatible primer → new finish.

• How long will the room take? Time a representative test section, including cleanup. Layers, adhesive and wall condition make a single room-wide estimate unreliable.
• When can I paint? After the wall and repairs are dry and the chosen coating system’s preparation requirements are met—not simply when the paper is gone.
• Is the wall ready for new wallpaper? Check its required preparation and primer. A clean-looking surface is only one part of that decision.

Sources and further reading

• Wallcovering Installers Association: stripping wallcoverings
• BEHR: wallpaper removal and preparation
• ROMAN: removing vinyl wallpaper
• Sherwin-Williams: removal methods and steam
• ROMAN: repairing drywall after removal
• EPA: lead-safe renovations for DIYers