Tunisian simple stitch is worked in two passes: a forward pass collects loops on the hook, and a return pass works them off. Keep the same side facing you rather than turning after every pass. Begin with a small swatch, count the loops before each return and pay particular attention to the final edge stitch. Some curling is normal, but tight tension can make it worse.
Choose a hook and yarn for learning
Use smooth, light-colored medium-weight yarn so the vertical bars are easy to see. A Tunisian hook has enough usable length or a cable to hold a row of loops. A short regular hook can manage a tiny sample only if its shaft and handle leave adequate room; do not crowd loops onto a bulky grip. Tunisian crochet often benefits from a larger hook than ordinary crochet with the same yarn, but the best size depends on your tension and the desired fabric. Make a small test rather than selecting by label alone. Avoid fuzzy or very dark yarn for the first attempt. Have a stitch marker, scissors and a yarn needle ready for counting and finishing.
Make a foundation row of loops
Chain 12 loosely for a manageable practice width. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, leaving it on the hook. Repeat across the remaining chains. The loop already on the hook counts, so you should finish with 12 loops for this sample. Use the same part of each chain consistently. Working into the back bumps can give a tidy lower edge, but the important first goal is finding every chain without splitting the yarn. Slide accumulated loops along the shaft without pulling them tight. Count now, while a missed chain is still easy to locate. Do not turn the work after collecting the loops.
Complete the return pass
Yarn over and pull through one loop to begin the return pass. Then yarn over and pull through two loops. Repeat the two-loop movement until one loop remains on the hook. That final loop becomes the first loop of the next forward pass; it is not an extra stitch to discard. Keep the return chain relaxed and even. If you pull every movement tightly, the next row’s vertical bars will be difficult to enter. Watch that you are working through two loops each time after the initial single-loop step. Accidentally pulling through three reduces the count and can create a tight gap in the fabric.
Find the vertical bars for simple stitch
With the same face toward you, look for the upright bars across the row. Skip the first bar directly beneath the loop already on the hook. Insert the hook from right to left under the next front vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop. Leave it on the hook and continue across. For the final edge stitch, work under the two strands at the outer edge rather than taking only a weak single strand. This helps form a stable side. Count the loops: the sample should still have 12. Left-handed crocheters mirror the direction, but the structural idea is the same. Complete another return pass without turning the work.
Repeat while checking both edges
Work several more rows, counting the forward-pass loops every time. The first loop is already present, the interior bars supply the middle loops and the final edge supplies the last one. This mental division makes accidental increases and decreases easier to spot. Lay the swatch on the table periodically. The rows should form an orderly grid, although the lower edge may curl toward you. Do not stretch the fabric hard to force it flat. Compare the side edges: one may become looser if you enlarge the final loop while repositioning the hook. Keep that movement controlled while still allowing enough room for the next stitch.
Bind off without tightening the top
After a completed return pass, work a slip-stitch-style bind-off across the next row. Insert under the next vertical bar as for simple stitch, yarn over and draw the new loop through both the bar and the loop already on the hook. Continue across, treating the final edge carefully. Keep these stitches as relaxed as the rest of the fabric. Cut the yarn with a useful tail and draw it through the final loop. Weave in the ends along a secure path without pulling the edge inward. Wash or block the sample according to the yarn’s care instructions, then let it dry fully before judging its dimensions. Avoid direct heat on fibers that may melt or be damaged.
Troubleshoot curling and changing counts
A little curl is characteristic of Tunisian simple stitch. A larger hook, more relaxed tension or an appropriate border can help, but blocking is not a guaranteed cure for every yarn and fabric. If the swatch is very stiff, compare a second sample with a larger hook before planning a scarf or garment. A narrowing edge usually means a missed final stitch or an error in the return pass. A widening edge can come from working into the first bar even though its loop is already on the hook. Uneven holes may indicate split yarn or inconsistent entry points. Keep both test swatches and record hook size, yarn and loop count. That small reference set is more useful than immediately starting a large project with an untested fabric.
Two common questions
Does the remaining loop count? Yes. The loop left after the return pass is the first loop of the next row. Working an extra stitch into the bar directly below it can increase the width. Count that existing loop along with all newly collected loops before each return pass.
Is curling always a mistake? No. Tunisian simple stitch naturally tends to curl, though tight tension can exaggerate it. Compare a looser sample or a larger hook and consider a suitable border for a finished project. Blocking results vary with fiber, so judge a washed and dried sample rather than promising that every curl will disappear.
A useful product to compare
Clover Takumi Tunisian Crochet Hook. A long or cable-compatible Tunisian hook gives the live loops room to sit. Confirm the hook size and whether a cable and stopper are included in the particular listing.
Search Amazon for Clover Takumi Tunisian Crochet Hook. This is an untagged Amazon search, not a verified individual listing. Check the exact model, seller, contents and current price before buying. The photographs and diagrams above illustrate the craft, not this product; no firsthand product testing is claimed.
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